| Product | Key actives | pH | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Barrier Repair Cream | Ceramides NP/AP/EOP 2%, cholesterol, free fatty acids, in a 3:1:1 ratio | 5.2–5.6 | AM and PM, last step at night |
| Ceramide Serum | Ceramide NP 1%, phytosphingosine | 5.0–5.5 | AM and PM, before moisturizer |
| 10% Mandelic Resurface | Mandelic acid 10% (free acid value 7.4%) | 3.6 | 2–3 nights a week, never with the AHA Peel |
| Overnight AHA Peel | Glycolic acid 8% + lactic acid 4% | 3.5 | Once a week to start, never two nights running |
| Enzyme Polish | Papain + bromelain, no abrasives | Not stated on the carton | 1–2 times a week, 3 minutes, then rinse |
| Gel-to-Milk Cleanser | Non-ionic, sulfate-free surfactants | 5.5 | AM and PM |
| Micellar Prep Water | Poloxamer 184, alcohol-free | 5.5 | PM, as a first cleanse |
| Niacinamide 6% Fluid | Niacinamide 6%, zinc PCA 1% | 5.8–6.2 | AM or PM, after cleansing |
| Squalane Oil | Squalane 100%, sugarcane-derived | Not applicable (no water) | 2–3 drops, last step |
| Peptide Eye Balm | Peptide blend, caffeine 1% | Not stated on the carton | AM and PM |
| Fluid Mineral SPF 46 | Zinc oxide 16%, non-nano | Not applicable | AM, reapply every two hours of direct exposure |
Why the ratio matters more than the amount
The Barrier Repair Cream carries ceramides at a combined 2%, alongside cholesterol and free fatty acids, in a 3:1:1 ratio. The outer layer of skin is built from all three lipids. A cream that supplies ceramides alone is offering one of three parts. We print the ratio on the carton because it is the number that describes the formula, more than any single percentage does.
Why 6% niacinamide
Niacinamide is one of the best-studied cosmetic ingredients, and most of that research was done at concentrations between 2% and 5%, with some at slightly higher levels. We dose it at 6%, with 1% zinc PCA. Products at 10% and 20% exist, but higher percentages have not been shown to do more, and they are the ones associated with flushing. Higher percentages are marketing, and the carton says so.
Why acids come with a pH and a free acid value
An acid exfoliates only in its free, un-neutralized form, and how much of it is free depends on the pH of the formula. Two products that both say 10% can behave very differently. So the 10% Mandelic Resurface states its pH, 3.6, and its free acid value, 7.4%. The Overnight AHA Peel states glycolic acid 8% and lactic acid 4% at pH 3.5.
Mandelic is the largest of the common AHA molecules, which is why it works more slowly and stings less than glycolic at the same percentage, and why it is the one to start with.
Why frequency is part of the dose
How often you use an active is as much a part of the dose as the percentage in the bottle. The Acids line is dosed for two or three nights a week, not for every night, and the Overnight AHA Peel for once a week to start. Using an acid more often does not add results. It only wears down the barrier you are trying to keep.
- Never use two acids on the same night.
- Do not combine the Overnight AHA Peel with retinoids, vitamin C or the Mandelic Resurface.
- Patch test any acid on the inner forearm and wait 24 hours before the first use.
- Wear sunscreen the morning after an acid. Every time.
Why zinc at 16%, and why three tints
The Fluid Mineral SPF 46 uses non-nano zinc oxide at 16% as its only filter. Zinc is white, and at 16% an untinted formula leaves a cast on medium and deeper skin tones. Rather than lower the zinc, we added two tinted shades with iron oxides, which offset the white and add protection in the visible-light range.
What we do not dose
There is no fragrance in any formula, and no essential oils. Fragrance does nothing for the skin and is one of the most common reasons a product stings. We would rather a cream smell of nothing.